Colombia: Why the Devil’s Carnival Outshone the Lost City
When planning a two-week journey through Colombia, I assumed the highlight would be obvious. The Lost City Trek, one of South America’s most famous adventures, had been the centerpiece of the itinerary from the start. But as often happens in travel, the moments that stay with you are not always the ones you expect.
What I remember most is not an ancient archaeological site hidden in the jungle. It is a small town called Riosucio, where a string of chance encounters and acts of kindness turned a festival visit into an unforgettable experience. The route took us from Cartagena and the Caribbean coast through the Sierra Nevada mountains, into Colombia’s coffee region, and finally to Cali, a city where birds and salsa coexist surprisingly well.
New Year’s Eve in Cartagena
We landed in Cartagena on New Year’s Eve and headed into Getsemaní, the city’s colorful neighborhood famous for its murals, lively squares, and creative energy. Our destination was Café Havana, one of Cartagena’s historic music venues and a place that has welcomed locals and visitors for generations.
The atmosphere inside was exactly what we had hoped for. A live band played classic Cuban and Caribbean music while people gathered around small tables to celebrate the year’s end. It wasn’t a night dominated by dancing. Instead, it was about the music, the conversations, and the feeling of being part of a local celebration.
Outside, the streets of Getsemaní were buzzing. Residents, travelers, musicians, and families filled the plazas as midnight approached. It was a warm and memorable introduction to Colombia.
Minca and the Road to the Lost City
The next stop was Minca, perched in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The small mountain town is known for coffee farms, birdlife, and cooler temperatures than the Caribbean coast below. We spent our time enjoying the natural surroundings and preparing for the challenge ahead: the four-day trek to Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City.
The trek itself is not just a hike but a journey through dense jungle, across rivers, and into indigenous territory. Over four days, the trail climbs steadily through tropical forest before reaching one of Colombia’s greatest archaeological treasures.
Unfortunately, the most difficult part of the trek had nothing to do with the terrain.
On the night before the final ascent, I became seriously ill. What should have been a restful evening before reaching the Lost City turned into a sleepless night marked by repeated bouts of nausea and severe stomach problems. By morning, I was exhausted, dehydrated, and facing the famous climb of more than 1,200 stone steps leading to the site.
The ascent became an exercise in determination rather than fitness. One slow step followed another. Under normal circumstances, the staircase is challenging. After a night like that, it felt monumental.
Yet standing at the top, surrounded by jungle-covered mountains and the ancient terraces of Ciudad Perdida, made every difficult moment worthwhile. The achievement felt more meaningful because reaching it had required far more perseverance than expected.
A Night Outside Jardín
After flying south and picking up a rental car in Medellín, we spent a night at Gulupa Ecolodge just outside Jardín. The lodge deserves special mention. Nestled among green hills and surrounded by birdlife, it was one of the most pleasant accommodations of the trip. An early morning walk around the property revealed why birdwatchers are drawn to this region.
Jardín itself was attractive, but after hearing so much praise about it, we found it more touristy than expected. The town was pleasant enough, but it never became one of our favorite stops. The real highlight was the peaceful countryside and the birding around Gulupa Ecolodge rather than the town itself.
Riosucio: Where Colombia Came Alive
If Ciudad Perdida was the most famous destination on the trip, Riosucio was unquestionably the most memorable.
We had planned our journey around the Carnival of Riosucio, also known as the Carnival of the Devil, one of Colombia’s most unique cultural celebrations. The problem was that we had failed to find accommodation in town. Every room seemed to have been booked months in advance.
What happened next became the story of the trip.
The owner of the Airbnb where we had stayed before the festival connected us with someone in Riosucio. That person connected us with somebody else. Before long, we had been offered a place to sleep in a family member’s home in town.
There was no booking website involved, no contract, no formal arrangement. Just people helping people.
Suddenly we were no longer visitors making a quick day trip. We were able to stay in the middle of the celebrations, which proved especially convenient in a town where aguardiente flowed freely and seemed to be consumed everywhere, sometimes straight from large tetra-pack cartons shared among friends in the street.
The festival itself was spectacular. One introduction led to another. Conversations became invitations. Eventually, we found ourselves welcomed into a special Chamber of Commerce hospitality area overlooking the main plaza, giving us an exceptional view of the festivities.
The second day brought the parade that remains one of my strongest memories of Colombia. The costumes were magnificent, imaginative, colorful, and incredibly elaborate. Bands played, performers entertained the crowds, and the entire town seemed transformed into a giant stage.
But what made Riosucio extraordinary was not the costumes or the music. It was the people. Again and again, strangers went out of their way to help us and make us feel welcome. The carnival was fascinating. The hospitality was unforgettable
Coffee and Birds at Café Tío Conejo
Leaving Riosucio, we continued toward Manizales and checked into Café Tío Conejo. For anyone interested in coffee and nature, it is difficult to imagine a better combination. The property offered both a coffee experience and excellent birdwatching opportunities.
An early morning bird tour provided yet another reminder that Colombia is one of the world’s premier birding destinations. Combined with the coffee tour later that day, it became one of the most enjoyable and relaxing sections of the journey.
Café Tío Conejo captured much of what we loved about Colombia: beautiful scenery, warm hospitality, and experiences rooted in local traditions rather than mass tourism.
Salento and the Cocora Valley
From Manizales we continued to Salento, gateway to the famous Cocora Valley. Walking among the towering wax palms, some of the tallest palm trees in the world, felt almost surreal. Giant trunks rose through the misty landscape like something from a fantasy novel.
Cali: Salsa and Birding
Our journey ended in Cali, a city famous for salsa and one that held special appeal for us as dancers. We visited the Grupo Niche monument, explored the Salsa Museum, took a private salsa lesson, and spent several evenings enjoying the city’s renowned salsa scene. Cali deserved far more time than we could give it and will likely warrant a separate story of its own.
Beyond the music, Cali offered some memorable birdwatching. A visit to the San Antonio Cloud Forest, also known as Km 18, revealed yet another side of Colombia’s incredible biodiversity. Among the highlights were a striking Crimson-rumped Toucanet and a pair of Red-headed Barbets quietly feeding one another, one of those special wildlife encounters that lingers in the memory long after the trip is over.
For us, Cali provided a fitting finale: salsa, birds, and a reminder that in Colombia, culture and nature are rarely far apart.
The Real Highlight
Before leaving for Colombia, I would have confidently predicted that Ciudad Perdida would be the defining memory of the trip.
I was wrong.
The Lost City was magnificent. Reaching it after a night of illness made the accomplishment even sweeter. But years from now, I suspect what I will remember most is Riosucio: the stranger who offered us a place to stay, the chain of introductions that opened unexpected doors, the invitation to watch the festivities from the plaza, and the feeling of being welcomed into a community rather than merely visiting it.
The carnival was extraordinary. The generosity behind it revealed something even more special about Colombia.